Like the waves he misses, one HCSR contributor goes off on something we can all relate to

By Dan Colburn, Cocoa Beach, FL

Is it wrong to envy?

I mean, Biblically speaking, it is one of the “7 Deadly Sins,” right?

Maybe “envy” isn’t even the right word for what I’m getting at here; but I have something I feel when I know there are good waves and I see a picture of my favorite spot or read a Facebook post from one of my online “friends:”

It was really fun this morning, shoulder high, glassy a frames for 3 hours with only 5 guys out!

That crap gets me all worked up inside, especially when I’m stuck shredding cubicle reef™. (Credit to my buddy JT for that term).

So there I sit on my grey, carpeted beach trying not to get burned by the fluorescent rays of my artificial sun looking at pictures of everyone else surfing, thinking to myself, “What am I doing with my life?”

Why am I doing what I am doing? For money? Based on my account balances I’d be a fool if that were the reason. Some corporate ladder BS? Nah, I don’t care in the least about working my way to some VP-level nightmare. So what gives? Why would I do this?

Honestly, as I sit here I can’t come up with a good reason. Having a few extra bucks is nice but if you don’t ever use it for things you love, then why bother?

Think about your situation for a second. You work for money to do what? Pay bills for shit you really don’t need anyway. Do you need a new car? Do you need 1200 HD cable channels and Internet speeds that rival the Space Shuttle (RIP)? Do you even care that your clothes have some fancy label on them? I don’t.

It’s so easy to get sucked into this ideal of what it means to be successful and what you do and do not need in your life to be comfortable. All the garbage we see in magazines, on TV … it’s all crap that is designed to keep us in this effing rat race, spinning our wheels so we keep buying the next useless chotchke that you’ll forget you even have in six months. What was it Donovan said? “Didn’t exist last week but now it’s what you need.”

In light of my previous comments, I am beginning a new tradition of one surf trip every year. I might not be able to swing a boat trip in Indo but my goal is going to be getting away for a few days every year with no other goals except surfing abundantly.

What was it Donovan said? “Didn’t exist last week but now it’s what you need.”

Me and some buddies did a short one last year and enjoyed five days in Puerto Rico, some surfing, some beer drinking, but mostly just enjoying some good times. We didn’t do one this year but plans in the works for a Spring 2016 trip. Nicaragua? OBX? Tofino? Who knows.

But we will do something in an effort to shed this concocted idea of the American Dream.

Snowdonia Wavegarden prototype now operating in UK, surfpark to open next year

We’ve been hearing about the rise of man-made waves for years now. And no, those things on cruise ships don’t count.

This wave pool concept, to open in Snowdonia National Park in North Wales next year, appears to mimic quite well the qualities of surfing, sans a few of the more learned aspects of the sport, like wave selection and lineup etiquette. This is because, at least according to this video, every wave is a drop-in and you have it all to yourself. Sounds like heaven.

For some, it might be.

But for many others, surfing is not just about riding a wave, it’s also about embracing the action of the ocean and absorbing the visceral experience of floating above a dark aquatic underworld. It’s about the exploration of swell, physical empowerment and the simple joys of unraveling the nuances a recently discovered wave.

In short, wave parks are the indoor climbing gyms of surfing, even if placed in the middle of an outdoor recreation hub.

There’s no question I would pay to solo ride a few perfect waves generated by a machine controlled by a guy in a booth, especially since I live in the desert. I’m certain that it wouldn’t come close to the true experience.

The ocean is a complex system. We may be able to mechanically clone its surface actions and bring surfing to the plains states, but we’ll never be able to re-create a real wave.