For many, the signs of an early winter showing up around the country bring ripples of anticipation for deep, untouched lines outside the ropes and sun-filled bowls silhouetted in burst of after-turn. However, for the subjects of Dark Fall Productions,’ Alex DePhillipo’s directed “Dark Fall,” winter means steep, heavy barrels of gray New Jersey coastal swells. Surfed by a stalwart crew of hardcore east coasters vying for the attention they have long deserved, these waves have perpetuated the notion that the northern east coast is a surfing world all its own. And, it’s prepared its riders as well as any break could, training them in the ways of global surf travel and how to establish themselves in the world’s most elite line ups.
This is one of the more unique surfing experiences in the world. As big wave riding becomes more common and the challenges to ride the gnarliest grow more ridiculous with each sponsor willing to back them, events like this, that help promote surfing in areas not completely in tune with wave riding and that take advantage of truly rare instances in nature, should warrant the industry’s attention. Surfer’s Journal, of course, is on it. The video explains it all. Epic.
I must admit, the shape of the board itself is enough to make me want to grab it and go. However, I’m sure that after my first few failed drops, I’ll be paddling in to grab my 9’2” traditional. The one with a defined tail and single cut-away on the bottom.
Finless surfing looks like something that just might be the future of surfing. But then again, at one point so did the Meyerhoffer. Wegner is no stranger to great board shapes so his name alone lends significant credibility. The video shows a super loose ride and on-wave maneuvers that I don’t recall reading about in articles and journals on traditional Hawaiian wave riding, which is the style of riding Wegner is looking to emulate with this sans-fin shape. But hey, who am I to question evolution?